General Motors equipped the Shark with high-performance brakes. In fact, General Motors used a cutting-edge-design “disc brake system” beginning in 1965 on the Corvette at the front end with disc brakes available on the rear. The 1966 Corvette received disc brakes all around, and that began the four-wheel disc brake system as standard equipment on the Corvette. There were minor differences as the years progressed, but for the most part the system remained unchanged through the 1966–1982 Corvette production run.
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General Motors used four disc pad application caliper pistons, two on each side of the fixed caliper housings to clamp the disc pads. Larger-diameter caliper pistons were used up front to utilize the Shark’s additional front-end weight for increased stopping power.
Race cars today use a similar system to apply brakes on road courses. The one drawback was that these were much higher-maintenance components than the standard disc brake systems on today’s production vehicles. By 1969 General Motors phased out the four-piston fixed-caliper disc brake systems, except for the Corvette application.
At one point the Big Three auto manufacturers used a similar system on their performance cars from 1965–1968; they too phased them out in favor of floating caliper disc brake systems. The floating caliper systems required little maintenance and proved to be reliable for the masses. The idea was for the caliper to move as the disc pads wore, and this movement allowed the caliper to compensate for rotor anomalies. Any rotor lateral run-out creates major problems with the fixed caliper brake systems.
Up front on a Shark you have a racebred system for excellent braking power that requires extra care during service. The fixed four-piston calipers have tremendous clamping force on both sides of the rotor, front and rear.
One important thing to know about the original caliper design is that the castiron piston seal bore, which is susceptible to corrosion damage even when the brake fluid is changed often. As the caliper piston seals ride on the corrosion-damaged caliper bores they become torn, and cause leaks. A whole industry was born to repair this known problem by installing stainless-steel sleeves in each piston bore to remedy the corrosion issues for good.
Once that problem was dealt with, another one became apparent. Any rotor lateral run-out works the caliper pistons like little engines, causing even the stainless steel to wear. The resulting caliper piston pulsation drew air in at the caliper, and caused a low brake pedal. The longer you drove, the lower the brake pedal got, until it was on the floor.
A number of choices are available today concerning calipers, including modified factory cast-iron calipers. One major upgrade to the factory caliper was when square-cut O-rings replaced the original lip seals. The square-cut seals held on to the pistons better and allowed minor rotor run-out issues without causing air intrusion in the system. You still need to maintain rotor run-out, but you could get away with .010 inch and not lose a brake pedal because of air intrusion.
The square-cut seals also reduced brake pad friction without losing pedal feel as the pads got knocked back slightly during driving.
The remaining drawback was added weight from the cast-iron caliper housings. Reducing unsprung weight at each wheel is always a good thing, and the latest aftermarket replacement calipers do that with alloy castings. They have the best of the best: lightweight, square-cut caliper piston seals and they look great with open-spoke wheels.
The available kits are bolt-on, and ready to go out of the box with the attaching stainless-steel braided hoses included. One thing to consider is the brake pad; each aftermarket caliper manufacturer uses its own disc pad. Ordering a set of replacement pads is a good idea so that you aren’t waiting a week to get going after a race weekend. That is another point to consider: what disc pads are available for their exclusive design? Preferably a softer compound for the everyday driver and more aggressive race pads for a race weekend.
Step 1: Caliper Installation
I always clean the threads with a 7/16-20 tap to make sure my 65 ft-lb–torque reading is attained. At the rear axle, the caliper mounting bolt goes through the caliper and then into the mount. At the front, the caliper itself has threads and they are often worse than the threaded rear caliper mounting plates for corrosion and rust. When a Shark owner complains of a knocking sound during hard braking, these threaded holes are often the cause. The caliper is loose even though the bolts are tightened to their correct torque specification.
Step 2: Install Bolts
It seems simple enough: grab some bolts and install the caliper, right? General Motors used four 1-inch-long bolts to mount the front calipers and four 11 ⁄8-inch-long bolts for the rear calipers. Using the incorrect bolt length can cause you to scar the rotors where the bolts dig into the rotor’s surface. I use 11 ⁄4-inch-long Grade-8 bolts with a thick flat lock washer, front and rear.
Step 3: Prep Caliper Before Install
I am preparing to install a set of Vette Brake and Products square-cut O-ring calipers. I prefer their calipers because the square-cut O-ring–equipped cylinder bores help stabilize the caliper pistons, lessening the chance of air intrusion from rotor run-out. The caliper retention clips are provided in a complete caliper, disc pad, and hose kit to keep the pistons back until the disc pads are installed. I find it easiest to install them at the bench before installing the calipers.
Step 4: Install Disc Pads
These hefty large-friction-area disc pads are one of the reasons the Shark has such good brakes from the factory. I am wearing the gloves to prevent any contamination from ending up on the disc pads, which would find its way onto the rotor surfaces. Never ever use any anti-squeak coating on the back of Shark disc brake pads: the adhesive-like substance sticks the pads onto the caliper pistons, causing caliper wear as the pads follow the rotors forcing the pistons in and out. I use a light coating of high-temperature silicone grease to keep the pads from sticking to the caliper pistons. The FF-coded pads work well during the warm-up and when under high-heat loading.
Step 5: Install Calipers
This square-cut O-ringed and stainless-steel-sleeved caliper has been painted, installed, and is ready for action. These calipers are plenty adequate for a street-performance Shark, even one that may venture out onto a gymkhana track or autocross course. The trick to long, dependable braking is frequent brake fluid exchanges, especially after a race event–filled weekend. Note the outer bleeder screw. Both rear calipers have them; they must be bled, or you have a low brake pedal forever.
Ceramic, organic, metallic, or a combination of friction materials are available for the Shark brake system. Sintered metal or metallic disc pads are typically the most aggressive and they affect the disc rotors in a big way, causing them to wear quickly. Metallic pads also require heat buildup to begin doing their job efficiently, although pedal feel is maintained after numerous high-speed stops. You have to apply more pedal pressure when the rotors and pads are cold. Combine that with an engine on high idle, and parking-lot maneuvering can become quite interesting.
Organic disc pads are usually the least expensive and wear quickly; heat fade can be a major concern after just a few high-speed stops. Ceramic is a good choice for an all-around performance pad with minimal dusting on your expensive shiny wheels.
Disc pads have alpha coding to give you an idea of how well they work and at what temperatures. Full race pads typically do not use this DOT or FMVSS coding because their products operate at higher temperatures than the street/ performance disc pads. Codes are found on the edge of the pads (usually in the center of the coding): you might find FF, meaning they have a friction coefficient of 0.35 to 0.45 in the 200- to 600-degree temperature range. Preferably you want the alphas to be close to each other; avoid major changes in braking performance as you go from no heat to full heat.
The bottom line is, you will need to do some testing and recording to find the best disc pad for your driving style. I suggest that you start with the FF and go to a higher alpha if need be.
An important part of disc pad life is how they begin life: bedding or burnishing is required by most performance brake pad manufacturers. The idea is to bring them up to their optimal operating temperature in a series of stops and then let them cool down. This allows the pads to transfer a layer of material to the rotor’s surface for the best possible braking. Each stop increases in severity until the process is complete; refer to the pad supplier’s instructions on the particular pads bedding procedure.
Pre-bedded or burnished pads are available, but they come with rotors. If you plan to do any serious racing it is good to have a set of rotors and pre-burnished pads on hand for a change at the track if necessary.
Disc Brake Rotors
Before you choose a disc brake rotor, you need to know that new rotors out of the box can end up with excessive runout. The rotors themselves are not always the problem. Wheel bearing hub runout can cause excessive rotor run-out. Minor wheel hub variations can add up to a major run-out issue. The fix is maintaining the brake rotor run-out at a maximum .004 inch at the far outside edge of the rotor’s diameter.
You also have to be cognizant of the wheel bearing condition at all times. Loose wheel bearings mimic rotor runout and allows the caliper pistons to be knocked back into the bores; excessive brake pedal travel results.
Wheel Hub Refurbishment
Step 1: Inspect Disc Brake Rotors
You need to determine that your C3’s brake system is safe and reliable. There are two very important disc brake rotor checks to make rotor thickness and run-out. If your rotor measures less than 1.215 inches thick, they should be replaced, General Motors says the rotors should not be machined if they are 1.230 or less inches thick. If your rotors are above that limit and you decide to have them machined, the rotors must be measured after the machining process to ensure minimum thickness has been maintained. If your rotors pass the thickness test the next objective is to maintain less than .004 inch of maximum rotor run-out to avoid a soft brake pedal from air intrusion. After the bearing hubs have been serviced and the rotors are installed, you should perform run-out checks.
Step 2: Service Bearing
The first step in maintaining the rotors’ run-out integrity is to service the tapered roller bearings. Unless you know that the bearings and races have been recently replaced, I recommend replacing them while everything is apart. Two machined areas in the bearing race seat area allow use of a punch to remove them. Alternately, tap on the race so that the race comes out evenly to avoid distorting the machined surfaces. Keep the punch as upright as possible to avoid gouging the surfaces.
Step 3: Remove Rotor Hub
General Motors used rivets to fasten the hubs to the rotors. Drill out the rivets to separate the hub from the rotor. The 1/4-inch rivet shank requires a 1/4-inch drill bit to cut off the rivet head. First, use a punch and hit center punch of the rivet head to get as close to it as possible. Center the drill on the head of the rivet and that often pops the head off the rivet’s shank. Then use a 3/8-inch drill bit for the head removal if center punching did not take it off. Chances are you won’t be using the rotor you are drilling.
Step 4: Remove Rivets
Over the years, I have seen many Sharks with low brake pedals and found that new rotors were installed on poorly prepared hubs with the remnants of the rivets left in place. I use an air hammer and pin punch to knock them out. A large hammer works, but it takes more effort and time. But if you’re careful and do not allow the punches to increase outer diameter they don’t become jammed into the hub. The punch raises the surface around the rivet hole and causes rotor run-out issues. Once the rivet is punched out, clean the surfaces with a small sanding disc to knock down any raised areas.
Step 5: Replace Studs
I install new wheels and studs on every brake system during the restoring of a C3. Rusty and damaged threads are also commonly found at this point. It is very easy and inexpensive to replace the studs. If you plan to change wheels or adding a spacer for wheel offset, you should install longer studs to accommodate the changes and ensure your safety. Most race sanctioning bodies want the wheel stud to be flush or protrude through the lug nut for any competing class. This Lisle stud installation tool works well for stud replacement. The high-strength bearing that comes with the tool limits friction as the stud is pulled back into place. I feel for the serrations of the stud until they fit into the serrations left from the previous stud to get the best fit. Once the stud is seated into the serrations, the tightening begins. Yes, you can press the studs in with a hydraulic press. Unfortunately, it is very easy to have them pushed in at an angle.
Step 8: Pack Bearings with Grease CONTINUED
The chassis/bearing grease heats up enough on long trips to semi-liquefy. Apply a couple of tablespoons into the hub before installation to ensure enough lubricant at both bearings on long road trips. Never fill the hubs completely with grease because they need room for expansion as the hubs heat up. If you pack too much grease in the hubs, it squeezes out and you have a mess to clean up. Using the correct amount of grease gives you a performance edge without having to worry about early bearing failure.
Step 9: Adjust Front Wheel Bearings
Proper bearing adjustment is the final step and key to long bearing life and the best possible brake performance. Rotate the hub as the adjusting nut is tightened. When the nut is bottomed out and requires effort with the pliers to turn, stop. Then, loosen the nut and do it once more; you want zero to .002-inch maximum clearance between the bearing rollers and races. When you reach zero clearance back the nut off to the closest cotter pin hole (two are provided). If you can feel play in the hub as you pull on it at the top and bottom, it is too loose. The hub should spin freely but if it takes effort to rotate it, the hub is too tight.
When properly maintained, the 1968–1982 Shark factory disc brake rotor is very good. The original rotors have stout, ventilated, 1-inch-thick disc pad surfaces on an 11-inch overall diameter surface. Cheap rotors are made of lighter-weight material and are more susceptible to run-out issues from thermal cycling. For the occasional hard-driven street Shark, a good-quality set of name-brand rotors (Wagner or Raybestos, for example) are sufficient.
Aftermarket rotors come in five forms: drilled, slotted, ball milled, drilled, and slotted, and ball milled and slotted. The idea behind drilling, slotting, and ball milling is to allow the brake pad gases and heat to be expelled quickly.
This is proven technology, with some drawbacks. Drilling a rotor causes checking (minute cracking) around each drilled hole from thermal cycling; there is no way to combat this; it will happen.
Slotting a rotor allows the release of heat without the inherent checking from the drilled holes, making it a better choice for a hard-driven street Shark.
Drilling and slotting a rotor is for ultimate heat control for true race cars that get frequent inspections, and the owners expect to hear that the rotors require replacement. Of course you can use the drilled rotors on street-driven Sharks. The idea is to keep an eye on the rotor surfaces for checking if you really use them for what they are capable of. If you only occasionally use the brakes hard they last a lifetime.
Brake Rotor Truing
Step 1: Prep Rotor
This is another important step to ensure a true parallel rotating rotor. The high-speed right-angle grinder has a maroon Scotch-Brite cleaning disc to remove all the rust and corrosion that accumulates between the rotor and hub. Number 40- or 60-grit sanding discs are available, and sometimes they are required if the inner surfaces have been beaten up from rivet removal. I always wash the rotor surfaces with a degreaser such as Purple Power after any machining (or if they happen to be new) before installation. Many people use brake cleaner in spray cans to clean the rotors, but it does not flush out the metallic particles like soap and running water.
Step 2: Check Rotor for Run-Out
This ball-milled and slotted rotor needs to be rechecked for runout to make sure it is under the maximum .004 inch to avoid a low brake pedal. Because of the rotor design I had to check the readings on the inside diameter, which is not preferred because it is greater at the outer circumference. The ball milling and slotted rotors help hot gases escape quicker under hard braking. I prefer this style of rotors for street/strip use because they do not crack as easily around the milled areas.
Step 3: Rectify Rotor Run-Out
You may be thinking that if the rotors are on the hubs when they are machined, they should be perfectly true. On the rear of a Shark the only way to machine the rotors on the hub is to do it on the car with the rotor on the drive hub. To easily rectify the problem I use a piece of .005-inch brass shim stock to make a shim and then install it at the low spot. Finding the true low spot can be tricky; sometimes I have to move the shim to the stud to the right or left to get the rotor run-out to be less than .004 inch. Always use at least three lug nuts in a triangular pattern and tighten them to at least 65 ft-lbs during the dial indicator rotor run-out testing. You may have to pull the rotor off numerous times until you get the run-out where it needs to be.
You need to be concerned with the brake bias for even front-to-rear braking. Locking up the front or rear brakes entering a corner can be disastrous. Front brakes usually do more stopping because of the vehicle’s balance, with 60 percent of the typical Shark’s weight up front. Wider rear tires and suspension modifications can aid in the balance, but not as effectively as moving the actual weight.
General Motors did a good job with the original brake caliper design, using smaller caliper pistons on the rear to aid in brake balance. A combination valve was used to shut off one side of the hydraulic system in the event of a fluid leak or major loss. Combo valves have the functions of warning of a major fluid loss and regulating fluid pressure to aid in brake balance. Brake pressure was modified to the rear brakes with smaller fluid orifices in the combo valve to lessen rear brake application.
The best plan is to install an adjustable brake proportioning valve to finetune the brake balance. Track surfaces, tire sizes, and weight changes can be tuned for the ultimate brake application. The installation is simple and makes sense for a true performance Shark.
Boosting the brake system pressure is something that I never considered in the old days. That stuff added weight and required extra engine effort: I could be tough and live without it. Boy, that was not too smart. Today I want all the help I can get to keep the brakes under my performance cars boosted. Vacuum brake boosters have been a staple for factory-equipped Sharks and they work pretty well. Your camshaft selection may make that vacuum booster tough to handle. Low engine vacuum is not going to make a vacuum booster happy, and you certainly will not be, either.
Another consideration is the brake pads used today; aggressive pads are composed of denser materials that require more pedal pressure. This is especially a concern until the brakes heat up. Cold disc pads can make you wonder if you can hold back your performance vehicle during the first couple of brake applications. Your overall brake system choices dictate the best brake boost system for your performance Shark. As caliper piston sizes increase, so does the required brake pressure. You can go with manual brakes with a master cylinder piston size to aid in brake pedal effort; it just doesn’t make sense if you plan to drive on twisty roads that require frequent braking.
Many performance builders have switched to hydroboost brake amplification systems to have dependable repeatable braking. The power steering pump does double duty by pressurizing the brake booster system while providing Some brake boosters have an adjustable master cylinder pushrod that can get you into trouble. A low pedal is one problem; a locked-up brake system can have you stranded until you figure out why the brakes don’t release.
If you are planning a track day or spending the weekend at a road course with long straightaways and low-speed corners, you may need to change the pads during or after the event. Once the disc pads are glazed, which is evident by extra pedal effort for any stopping chores, they require replacement.
Track days are also hard on brake fluid, causing it to come close to boiling or to actually boil after repeated highspeed stops. Any moisture in the system lowers the boiling point, which causes pockets of air to form in the brake calipers and/or lines. The age-old question for any Shark owner has been what brake fluid should I use, silicone or glycol?
Many experts have weighed in on this with mixed input. The facts are, silicone is more viscous and has more of a lubricating feel. Some say that the silicone fluid expands so much that brake lock-up is possible. An interesting fact is the military uses DOT 5 silicone in all of its vehicles, including the ones used in the desert. If silicone expands so much more than glycol fluids when heated, how do they get away with it? We all know that fluid expands when heated; so does glycol-based brake fluid. Silicone is perfect for Sharks that are driven infrequently because it does not absorb water.
Glycol brake fluids are hygroscopic, pulling water out of the atmosphere anytime the brake fluid system is opened. For a serious performance Shark, DOT 4 low-moisture activity brake fluid is going to be the best choice, that and changing it regularly. If your brake pedal comes close to the floor after some aggressive stopping maneuvers, you can rest assured you either have excessive disc brake rotor runout or overheated brake fluid. The best plan is to flush the brake hydraulic system if you know that the rotors are fine.
Do not keep opened cans of brake fluid for more than a month; they are already drawing water into the can. Do not leave the cap off the fluid reservoir for any amount of time (longer than necessary to top it off). Do not fill the reservoir to the absolute top: all fluids require room for expansion. Make sure the reservoir cap seal is working well; the rubber bellows allows the fluid to change level in the reservoir without exposing the fluid to the atmosphere.
Bleeding the brakes on any Shark can be unnerving. Some say they gravity bleed the system, but that can take many days. Having a helper pump the pedal is an alternative, but even that can be difficult if the reservoir runs dry during a bleeding phase. Vacuum systems are available that connect to your brake bleeders and you draw the fluid out. They work, but the loose bleeder screw allows air to be drawn in around the screw threads. Of course this is not into the system, but it takes additional time.
One of the best-working simple bleeders is the Speed Bleeder, which replaces your existing bleeder screw. When the bleeder screw is loosened, an internal check valve in the Speed Bleeder allows fluid to be released, while preventing air from being drawn in when the brake pedal is released. Speed Bleeders have a sealer around the threads that prevents air intrusion. When the sealer deteriorates from multiple bleeding events, they allow air to enter the brake system.
I prefer to use a pressure bleeder that has a reservoir of clean fluid connecting it directly to the master cylinder. If your plan is to frequent race venues, this is the best option for quick, simple, one-person brake fluid flushing and bleeding. If you got caught up in a hot lap incident that required extra braking, you might find a need for a quick brake fluid exchange; this is the tool for you.
Performance Brake Kits
Buying brake kits can save you money and a lot of hassle by replacing the known troublesome pieces in one job. Before you decide on a kit, always consider the wheel-to-caliper clearance. Give yourself at least .050 inch at the tightest point of the caliper to the wheel. If at all possible, try to avoid wheel spacers, unless they are your only alternative. Brake kits come in many forms: calipers only, calipers and disc pads, and high-end kits with all the pieces.
Baer Brakes has the ultimate Shark brake setup with up to 14-inch drilled rotors and forged mono-block six-piston calipers that costs approximately $7,200. This is the ultimate Extreme Plus brake system with two-piece drilled and slotted rotors, and hubs loaded with bearings to convert your spindle to work with their hub. CNC machined adapters are included to easily make the conversion to this system.
Baer has a Pro Plus system that shaves off about $2,000 with one-piece rotors and two-piece calipers with six pistons.
All Baer calipers are aluminum to save weight and they use banjo-style fittings to connect their supplied stainless-steel hose assemblies. To prevent corrosion, all of the calipers are powder coated in three options or a custom color you choose. Baer has fitment templates to help fit the monster rotors and calipers on a Shark; you need an aftermarket or later Corvette wheel to make that happen.
Aftermarket Caliper Installation
Step 1: Install Caliper Shims
SSBC’s aftermarket calipers are lightweight aluminum castings that are ready to bolt on to your stock Shark suspension components. SSBC provides this shim with the 3M adhesive on it to hold it in place until the caliper is installed. This centers the caliper pad surfaces between the rotor surfaces. Their calipers are beefier in turn, making them come closer to the rotors than the OEM cast-iron calipers. Make sure you have the rotor in place with at least three lug nuts during this checking procedure. After the calipers are torqued to 65 ft-lbs, make sure the rotor spins freely without any hint of the rotor touching the caliper. As heat builds, things grow, and can become a clearance issue.
Step 2: Install Caliper Pads
SSBC provides this disc pad anti-rattle retainer along with the pads and pins to hold the pads in place. Like the OEM disc pads and calipers, do not use any anti-squeak products. Your warranty will be void and caliper damage can result. I do the same trick, applying a light coat of highheat silicone grease to the back of the pad.
Step 3: Place Brake Hose
It seems simple enough: screw the new hose to the caliper and you are done. That kind of thinking can get you in trouble. I have found a few discrepancies in brake kits: the banjo bolt that goes through the hose must protrude 1/4 to 3/8 inch out of the fitting with the copper washers on both sides of the bolt. If the banjo bolt is too short, the threads can be ripped out of the caliper. If they’re too long, brake fluid flow can be restricted. You must also pay careful attention to how the hose is routed, especially at the front where steering and rotating wheels can pinch or bind the hose. Check all of the hoses as you rotate the steering wheel from lock to lock with the Shark at road height.
Step 4: Inspect Caliper and Rotor
This left front brake assembly is ready to stop this 3,400-pound Shark. The SSBC rotors are coated, drilled, and slotted for the ultimate in brake performance. I feel that this is the ultimate bolt-on brake kit for a Shark. The rotors are more than 1-inch thick with lightweight aluminum calipers. Keep in mind: drilled rotors eventually end up with spider cracking if used to their full potential. In a race environment, brake pad and rotor condition are checked before each event and brake fluid is serviced. Depending on your terrain, you may have to check your brakes more often even if you are not racing frequently.
Step 5: Install Front Caliper
Wilwood makes an excellent OEM style replacement caliper as shown on the front of this 1977 Shark. They provide the calipers, disc brake pads, hoses, and all required hardware. Overall, their caliper is slightly lighter than the SSBC unit; it also requires shimming to center the caliper on the rotor. A dab of Teflon sealer is applied to the 90-degree fitting’s pipe threads before installing the fitting. I prefer to install the fittings after the caliper is installed and torqued to ensure correct hose placement.
Step 6: Install Rear Caliper
Wilwood and SSBC use small-diameter rear caliper pistons to balance front-to-rear braking, as did General Motors. Wilwood supplies the braided stainless-steel hose for the caliper to trailing arm. Although it may look as if the hose is on top of the parking brake cable, it is not; be careful of hose placement. One nice feature of the hoses supplied with the Wilwood brake kit is the plastic coating that keeps corrosion off and limits abrasions to other components. Steel braided hoses can saw just about any metallic piece into two pieces over a long period of time. It is never a good idea to let uncovered stainless-steel hoses come into contact with any objects because of this.
Step 7: Adjust Parking Brake
I prefer to have a parking brake: it beats having a wheel chock on a chain, especially if you have a manual transmission. First, the rotor must be aligned with the brake adjuster access holes in the spindle; second, make sure you have at least one lug nut holding the rotor flat on the hub. The rule is to tighten the star wheel until the rotor does not turn, then back off the adjuster seven to eight clicks. At best, when the brake shoes are in good condition with no grease on them, you can expect the parking brake to hold well enough to prevent rolling on a slight incline.
Wilwood has a different approach with their six-piston caliper offering; they place the caliper in the stock location on factory 12-inch-diameter rotors. They also powdercoat the two-piece forged billet aluminum bodied calipers. The major difference is that you could use your factory wheels if you prefer.
Some earlier Corvette wheels do not work without a spacer. Wilwood supplies stainless-steel braided hoses and national pipe thread fittings to connect to their calipers in the kit. When installed properly, pipe thread fittings do not leak, but keep in mind that it is easier to leave a fitting loose, which causes a minor seepage of fluid when using pipe thread fittings.
One major factor to consider is cost: a set of Wilwood D8-6 front calipers and rear set of D8-4 calipers with red or black powder coat is in the $1,600 range. Clear anodized calipers will shave about $400 off the cost of powder-coated calipers, leaving some money for drilled or slotted rotors at all four corners.
Vette Brakes and Products
On the other end of the spectrum, Vette Brakes and Products has a very dependable original-style caliper, pads, thermal-treated sport slotted rotors, stainless-steel braided hoses, and rear caliper-to-hose lines for all four corners of a Shark. The calipers are remanufactured cast-iron assemblies with stainless-steel sleeves and lip seal caliper pistons. All the necessary hardware is included for the installation, making it an easy afternoon project. This kit is very reasonable at $849 for the remanufactured calipers, and they come powder coated in numerous colors. This is the perfect kit for a street warrior and weekend competition enthusiast who is not worried about having a slick-looking caliper in open-spoke wheels.
Written by Chris Petris and Posted with Permission of CarTechBooks