Now that the case is cleaned you are ready to start transmission assembly. The transmission is built from bottom to top, starting with the bushing for the output shaft, and moving up through the unit from one sub-assembly to another.
This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, HOW TO REBUILD & MODIFY GM TURBO 400 TRANSMISSIONS. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:
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If an aftermarket shift kit, or transbrake is being installed, refer to the specific instructions supplied with your “kit” during transmission assembly. Special modifications are required, such as drilling a bleed hole in the direct drum, leaving out the center seal on the apply piston, etc.
Install New Case Bushing, Solenoid Connector and Parking Pawl
Step 1: Replace Rear Case Bushing
Once the case is cleaned and ready for assembly, drive out the rear case bushing for replacement. Using a suitable driver, apply a small amount of red Loctite to the new bushing and drive it in place.
Step 2: Install Solenoid Connector
Install the solenoid connector into the case with a new O-ring. Use a small amount of transmission fluid or Transgel so it slides easily into place.
Step 3: Install Manual Shift Seal
Install the manual shaft seal into the case with a driver until it is fully seated. Avoid collapsing the seal during installation, or it will leak when the transmission is placed in service.
Step 4: Install Parking Pawl Spring
Hook the parking pawl spring around the parking pawl, then on the transmission case. This holds the parking pawl out of the way so the transmission output shaft and lower assembly parts can be installed.
Disassemble Output Shaft and Lower Planetary Assembly
Step 1: Inspect Parts (Critical Inspection)
The output shaft and lower planetary assemblies and related hardware are shown here. Remove the low planetary carrier from the output shaft carrier assembly to inspect the pinions, Torrington bearings, and replace the bushing.
Step 2: Remove Snap Ring
With a flat-tip screwdriver or other suitable tool, remove the snap ring to separate the lower planetary assembly from the output shaft assembly. This allows access to the two sets of Torrington bearings, and to replace the output shaft upper bushing.
Step 3: Drive New Bushing
Note the depth of the old bushing and make sure to drive the new bushing to the same depth, and line up the lube oil hole at the same time. Use a sharp-angle cut punch to catch the edge of the old bushing and remove it. Use care to avoid damaging the material where the bushing rides. Use fine-grit automotive sandpaper to remove any scratches, if present, before driving in the new bushing. There may be two different width measurements for these bushings; the wider bushing is the preferred replacement.
Step 4: Install Bearings
Lube both lower Torrington bearing sets with clean ATF before reassembly of the lower unit. Make sure they are installed correctly with the lips facing in the same direction and in the same location from which they were removed. (See Step 2 on page 59 for more detail.)
Reinstall Planetary Assembly
Step 1: Install Planetary Carrier
Install the low planetary carrier, output shaft, and snap ring.
Step 2: Install Thrust Washer
Install a new thrust washer, tangs down, and use a small amount of transgel to hold it in place.
Step 3: Install New Bushing
Drive out the old bushing in the front planetary assembly. Apply a small amount of red Loctite to the new bushing and install, driving it flush with the upper edge of the bore.
Step 4: Replace Roller Clutch Assembly
Replace the low roller clutch assembly. For spring assemblies, see sidebar. Lubricate the one-way clutch assembly with clean ATF.
Step 5: Assemble Output Shaft
Lubricate the planetary pinions, install the silencer ring, and lower the upper planetary assembly in place. Turn the unit in both directions until it drops into position and is fully seated.
Step 6: Install O-Ring
If used, install a new O-ring onto the output shaft.
Step 7: Install Thrust Washer
Install a new thrust washer on the lower end of the output shaft assembly, and install the speedometer drive gear if removed previously.
Step 8: Install Thrust Plate
Install the case thrust plate/spacer. Use a small amount of transgel on the back side to retain it to the case.
Install Low Band and Output Assembly
Step 1: Install Low Band
Install the low band into the case. Lubricate the band lining with clean ATF
Step 2: Install Output Assembly into Case
The entire output assembly can now be lowered into the case. Do not dislodge the low band during this procedure. Once it is fully into position, you can install the sun gear (above left). Note the orientation of the drum with the low band. Also note that the sun gear is installed with the inner chamfered edge down toward the back of the case. The flat side faces up toward the center support and upper Torrington bearing.
Step 3: Install Lower Spacer (if applicable)
If used, install the lower spacer for the center support assembly. Early models did not use this spacer, so use care when switching out parts between early and late cases. There should be no space between the center support snap ring and the center support when the correct parts are used. If the snap ring does not go into place, or there is a gap between the snap ring and the center support, then the wrong center support has been installed.
Rebuild Center Support
Step 1: Remove Thrust Washer
Remove the thrust washer from the bottom of the center support, and the sealing rings from the grooves.
Step 2: Remove Apply Piston
Remove the apply piston retaining ring, springs, spring carrier, and apply piston from the center support.
Step 3: Remove Center Support Bushing
Drive out the center support bushing using a suitable driver. Make sure to provide sufficient support for the center support during this procedure.
Step 4: Inspect and Verify Parts (Critical Inspection)
All of the parts for the center support are shown here. Some models use an aluminum apply piston instead of a steel one. Replace the thrust washer, bushing, apply piston seals, and sealing rings. Inspect the Torrington bearing assembly, and replace it if needed.
Reinstall Center Support
Step 1: Install New Bushing
Drive a new bushing into the center support assembly, taking care to align the oil holes and driving it flush. Make sure to support the unit on a strong wooden block to avoid damaging it during this procedure.
Step 2: Install Lip Seals
Install two new lip seals on the intermediate clutch apply piston. Install the apply piston into the center support, using plenty of lubricant, clean ATF or transgel, and a lip seal installation tool. Once it is fully seated, install the spring guide, three springs, spring retainer, and retaining snap ring.
Step 3: Install Sealing Rings
Install four sealing rings into each ring groove. If using the factory-type cast-iron hooked rings, make sure to hook the ends together once the rings are in the ring grooves.
Step 4: Install Thrust Washer
Install a new thrust washer in place on the underside of the center support, and retain with transgel. Most replacement thrust washers are metal to replace the factory plastic thrust washer.
Step 5: Install Torrington Bearing
Install the three-piece Torrington bearing assembly to the bottom of the center support. Use a generous amount of transgel to hold all three parts together and in place while the center support is lowered into the case.
Step 6: Seat Retaining Ring
Lower the center support into the case, making sure the oil holes are aligned correctly. It may be necessary to rotate the output shaft to allow the unit to fully seat. Once fully seated, install the retaining ring with the open section toward the area of the case where no case lugs are present. The retaining ring for the center support is tapered and not square cut. Make sure to install the retaining ring with the flat portion against the center support. Using a large screwdriver, fully seat the retaining ring into the grooves in the transmission case.
Step 7: Replace Bushings
Remove and install new bushings into each end of the intermediate shaft, and install it into the transmission until it is fully engaged with the sun gear. It may help to turn the output and input shaft during installation to get the intermediate shaft to fully seat into position.
Rebuild and Install Clutch Pack and Intermediate Band
Step 1: Install Intermediate Clutch Pack
Install the intermediate clutch pack. Make sure to soak the frictions for several minutes in clean ATF prior to installation. Start with a steel plate, then alternate steel/friction, steel/friction, ending with the thick steel backing plate. Install the retaining snap ring, with the open end facing the portion of the case where no case lugs are present.
Step 2: Install Retaining Bolt
Install and tighten the retaining bolt for the center support. Using a large Phillips screwdriver or other suitable tool, apply torque to the center support while tightening the retaining bolt
Step 3: Test Clutch Pack
After the center support and intermediate clutch pack installation is complete, air test the clutch pack.
Step 4: Install Band
Install the intermediate band into the case.
Step 5: Sprag Upgrade (Performance Tip)
Two types of direct drums were used in the TH400. The notched drum (left) uses a roller-type clutch, while the smooth drum (right) uses a sprag-type clutch. There is a 34-tooth upgrade (right) for the smooth drum, and it is highly recommended for any TH400 transmission to be used in a high-performance application.
Step 6: Note Piston
The direct apply piston may be made of cast aluminum (left), or steel (right).
Step 7: Upgrade Retaining Ring (Professional Mechanic Tip)
The factory retaining ring for the intermediate oneway clutch is shown on the left. The later 4L80E transmission uses a spiral locking ring at the same location. It is best to use the upgraded retaining ring for all high-performance TH400 transmission rebuilds.
Step 8: Note Components
Here are the basic components of the direct drum. Several different clutch pack configurations were used for various models, so pay close attention to what was removed from the original drum, so the total clutch pack thickness can be duplicated during the rebuild.
Step 9: Install Intermediate Clutch
Install the intermediate clutch. Start with a lower race, sprag, outer sprag race, upper race, retainer, and snap ring. If a sprag-type clutch is being installed, the outer race should turn freely in the clockwise direction, but lock solidly in the counterclockwise direction. If a 4L80E spiral lock ring is being installed, make sure to snap it into position while winding it into the ring groove. This may take considerable effort, so be careful to not damage the retaining ring during installation.
Step 10: Install Drum Seal
Install the back-up seal onto the direct drum, with the lip facing up.
Step 11: Use Check Ball (Professional Mechanic Tip)
All direct drums use a check ball in either the drum (above left) or in the apply piston (above right), but not in both locations. If a new apply piston or drum is being installed, make sure that one of the two components uses a check ball. If both components end up with a check ball, one ball can be eliminated by removing it and installing a set screw to block oil flow (shown at left).
Step 12: Install Clutch Apply Seals
Install both direct clutch apply seals, with the lips facing down. Using plenty of lubricant, and a seal installation tool, install the apply piston into the drum until it is fully seated.
Step 13: Install Piston Return Springs
Install the piston return springs and spring retainer, and compress the retainer enough to install the retaining snap ring. Make sure the snap ring ends are between the raised areas of the retainer.
Rebuild Direct Clutch Pack and Install Direct Drum
Step 1: Build Clutch Pack
You are now ready to build your direct clutch pack. Note that several different arrangements were used for different models. Steel plates could be in several different thicknesses, and as many as six friction plates could have been used in the direct drum. Some drums also used a waved apply plate, which may have been directly on a friction, or against a steel plate and then a friction. Since many possibilities exist, you must ensure that the clutch pack has sufficient clearance, and uses the best combination of components for the application. The most common setup (shown) is to use five .090-inch-thick steel plates and five stock frictions. A waved plate can be substituted for the first thick steel plate, but this is not recommended for high-performance applications.
Step 2: Install Steels and Frictions
Install the direct clutch steels and frictions, starting with a steel plate, and alternating friction/steel, friction/steel, ending with the thick factory backing plate. Install the snap ring and check clutch pack clearance. It should be at least .015 inch (.030 to .060 inch is preferred), especially for high-performance applications.
Step 3: Install Direct Drum into Case
You can use an old outer sprag race to align the intermediate clutch plates in order to facilitate the installation of the direct drum into the case. The drum does not drop easily into position, so take the time to align and center the clutch plates into the case.
I welded a handle onto a old sprag outer race to use as an alignment tool for the intermediate frictions. It works well.
You can also apply air through the hole in the case to the intermediate piston, to “bounce” the clutch pack and help the direct drum drop fully into position.
Rebuild Forward Drum
Step 1: Disassemble Forward Drum
Rebuilding the forward drum is similar to rebuilding the direct drum. Remove the snap ring, and then the backing plate, inner splined hub, and clutch pack. Note that thrust washers are used on both sides of the inner splined hub.
Step 2: Remove Springs
Using a suitable spring compressor, remove the spring cage snap ring, spring retainer, springs, apply piston, and inner seal.
Step 3: Note Check Balls
Here are the forward clutch and related components. As with the direct clutch, the apply piston may be made of steel or aluminum, and the check ball could be found in either the drum or the apply piston, but not in both locations.
Step 4: Replace Lip Seals
Remove and replace the lip seals on the apply piston (with the lip facing down), then the back-up seal on the drum, with the lip facing up. Make sure to clean out and blow compressed air through the lube oil holes on the input shaft.
Step 5: Install Piston and Springs
Lubricate the back-up seal, and apply piston inner and outer seals.Using a seal installation tool, install the apply piston into the drum, making sure not to cut or fold over the lip seals during installation.Make sure the apply piston is fully seated, and turns freely in the drum.Install the piston return springs. Recesses are provided for them if an aluminum apply piston is used.Install the spring retainer. Compress the retainer with a suitable spring compressor and install the snap ring, making sure the open ends are not aligned with any of the raised areas of the spring retainer. If using a steel apply piston, as shown here, install the spacer ring on top of the apply piston.
Step 6: Install Plates
Install the steel and friction plates, followed by the backing plate and snap ring. I recommend a waved apply plate for all stock builds; it cushions the apply when the transmission is placed in gear. Depending on the efficiency of the torque converter and idle speed, the apply pressure that you feel can be pretty harsh if the waved apply plate is left out of this drum. Check the endplay of the clutch pack. It needs some play, but not nearly as much as the direct drum; .010 to .020 inch is recommended.
Step 7: Complete Forward Drum Assembly
Complete the assembly of the forward drum once the clutch pack setup is determined and checked for sufficient endplay. Install the inner splined drum, making sure the lower thrust washer is in place and held there with a small amount of transgel. Install the backing plate and snap ring, and fully seat the snap ring with a large flat-tip screwdriver. Be sure the upper thrust washer is in place, and retained with transgel. The drum is now ready to install in the case.
Step 8: Install Forward Drum
Install the forward drum into the case. Make sure it is fully seated. The best procedure to use is to wear a leather glove, and twist the input shaft back and forth to help align the frictions in the direct drum with the splines of the forward drum. It drops down one friction at a time until fully seated; this may take several minutes.
Rebuild and Install Oil Pump Assembly
Step 1: Rebuild and Install Oil Pump
The oil pump is the last component to rebuild. Flip it over and remove the five bolts that hold the two halves together. The upper section drops down, allowing the two halves to be separated.
Step 2: Inspect Pump Gears (Critical Inspection)
Inspect the pump gears closely where they engage with the torque converter. This is a common area to find wear or damage.
Step 3: Remove Seals and Bushing
Remove the outer pump sealing ring.Remove the front seal.Remove the bushing.
Use a sharp-angled punch to catch the edge of the seal. When driving out the torque converter bushing, do not to damage the area of the housing where it resides.
Step 4: Remove Sealing Rings and Thrust Washer
Remove both hooked iron sealing rings and the front thrust washer. The front washer is selective, with several thicknesses available to set input shaft endplay during the rebuild.
Step 5: Remove Snap Ring
Remove the snap ring that retains the pressure regulator valve, spring, and related components. (The correct orientation of the parts is shown here.) Some valves also have “horseshoe” shims behind the spring retainer. Make sure to use them unless the pressure regulator spring is being replaced with one from a shift kit, and the instructions recommend to discard any “horseshoe” shims found behind the retainer.Gently clamp the rear pump half in a soft-jawed vise. Compress the pressure regulator spring slightly and remove the retaining snap ring with a pair of snap ring pliers.
Step 6: Adjust Feed Hole (Important!)
I recommend reducing the size of the converter’s feed hole for high-performance transmission builds. This helps to ensure that fluid pressure used to fill the converter doesn’t push it unnecessarily hard against the engine’s thrust bearing.Tap the converter feed hole about five to six turns with a tapered 5/16-inch x18 tap. Install a brass 5/16-inch set screw.Drill the set screw to .150 to .160 inch. This still allows plenty of fluid for effective converter filling, and also reduces any tendency for excessive pressure to blow out the front seal.
Step 7: Remove Inner Bushings
Using a sharp-angle cut punch, remove both pump inner bushings by driving them down on one side, and then prying them out.
Make sure to measure the depth of each bushing before driving them out, so the new bushings can be driven into the correct position.
Step 8: Install New Bushings
Install new pump bushings, taking care to drive them to the correct depth below flush. Use a drop of red Loctite on them so they stay in place once pressed in service. It is a good idea at this point to test fit them by sliding the lower housing down over the forward drum input shaft. They may be a bit snug, but the shaft should turn freely inside the bushings.
Step 9: Install Torque Converter Bushing
Apply a drop of red Loctite to the new torque converter bushing and drive it in place. Drive from the front and seat the bushing flush with the upper edge of the bore.
Step 10: Install Front Seal
Apply a drop of Loctite to the front seal, and drive it into the pump housing until fully seated. Make sure that the seal’s inner spring doesn’t come out during this procedure.
Step 11: Install Oil Pump Gears
Lubricate and install the oil pump gears in the same orientation as they were removed.
The inner gear drive always faces away from the torque converter. If the inner gear is installed backward, it destroys the oil pump when placed in service.
Always check the pump clearance to the flush surface of the pump half. The pump gears should turn smoothly and freely within the housing.
Step 12: Install Front Washer (Precision Measurement)
Measure the thickness of the front thrust washer. Use a new one of the same thickness if your rebuild kit came with an assortment. If not, reuse the stock thrust washer, provided it is in good condition.
Step 13: Install New Sealing Rings
Install two new factory sealing rings, making sure the ends are hooked together and the rings move freely in their respective grooves.
Step 14: Align Pump Halves (Torque Fasteners)
Place both pump halves together and hand tighten the bolts. Use a large hose clamp to align the pump halves while ensuring good alignment of the bolt and oil holes. Tighten the bolts once the pump halves are correctly aligned. The bolts should be torqued to 18 to 20 ft-lbs.
Step 15: Install Rubber Seal
Install the large outer rubber seal into the groove in the pump. Take care not to twist the seal in the groove during installation.
Step 16: Install Pressure Regulating Valve
Lubricate the pressure regulator valve and install into the corresponding bore in the oil pump. The spring retainer goes against the valve, with any “horseshoe”-style shims that were removed. Install the shims against the valve, then the retainer, followed by the pressure regulator spring.Install the inner valve and retain it with some transgel or petroleum jelly. Install the pressure regulator spring (then the outer sleeve and valve).Compress the assembly and install the snap ring, with the flat side facing up. It helps to gently clamp the pump in a softjawed vise during this procedure. Push down several times on the pressure-regulating valve assembly to make sure the snap ring is fully seated.
Step 17: Lubricate Seal
Lubricate the outer pump seal with clean ATF.
Step 18: Install Pump Gasket
Install the pump-to-case gasket and a couple of guide studs to help align the pump while it is lowered into position.
Step 19: Install Manual Shaft
It is best to install the manual shaft and related hardware before installing the oil pump. This makes it much easier to install the retaining pin for the manual shaft. The pin can still be installed with the pump in place, but it has to be bent and then straightened again. Make sure that the parking pawl retainer is installed correctly. It is possible to install it backward, and then the vehicle will not hold when the selector is placed in the Park position.
Step 20: Install Oil Pump
Lower the oil pump into place, and install the bolts with new seals from the rebuild kit.
Once the pump is tightened, check the input shaft endplay. A small awl or screwdriver can be used to pry upward on the input shaft. Shaft endplay should be .015 to .030 inch. Use selective shims under the Torrington bearing, or selective washers and shims to correct the pump endplay to within specifications. Keeping endplay to a minimum, and installing a full set of bushings reduces up/down and end-to-end movement of the transmission’s internals. This improves sealing at the sealing rings, reduces gear noise, improves transmission shift function, and increases transmission life.
Check Clutch Packs and
Install Accumulator Piston
Step 1: Check Clutch Packs
Once the oil pump is installed and the bolts tightened, air test the clutch packs for correct operation. The intermediate clutch is applied by forcing compressed air through the center support retaining bolt. The holes on either side of the bolt are for the direct drum (also used for reverse), and the hole in the case is used to check the forward clutch for proper application. This final air check ensures that you haven’t broken any sealing rings when the parts were stacked in the case. A distinct “clunk” should be heard when applying the clutch packs, with minimal air leakage at the same time. If any excessive air leakage is noticed, the transmission should be taken back apart to investigate the cause.
Step 2: Install New Sealing Ring
Install a new sealing ring on the front band servo piston. Some factory rings are made of Teflon. Most rebuild kits contain an iron ring to replace the Teflon ring. Make sure that the clip is installed above the spring retainer and stays in place as the parts are slipped together. Without the clip in place, the servo piston is not able to push the pin and the band does not work when the transmission is placed in service. Gently install the entire assembly into the case and push on the piston to verify band function.
Step 3: Note Inner Spring
The low band apply servo also contains an accumulator. The inner spring does double duty here; it pushes off the band and operates the accumulator piston.
Step 4: Install New Servo Seal
Install a new rubber seal on the low band servo.
Step 5: Install New Piston Seals
Install new inner and outer seals onto the accumulator piston. Most replacement seals are metal with hooked ends.
Step 6: Install Accumulator Piston Assembly (Torque Fasteners)
Lubricate the accumulator piston and slide it inside the band apply piston. Install the entire assembly into the case using a new metal gasket between the cover and the case. Gently tighten all of the retaining bolts evenly, and then torque them to 15 to 18 ft-lbs.
Install Filter and Valve Body
Step 1: Install Filter and Valve Body
Locate the upper and lower separator plate gaskets. They are marked “C” for the case gasket (left) and “VB” for the valve body gasket (right).
Step 2: Install Check Balls
Install six steel check balls into the case at the locations shown.
Step 3: Install Gaskets
Install the case gasket, then the separator plate, and then the valve body gasket. Keep the parts together with a small amount of transgel or petroleum jelly.
Step 4: Install Downshift Solenoid Gasket
Install the metal gasket for the downshift solenoid. Some solenoids have their own gasket and do not require an additional one. Make sure that the separator plate and lower gasket do not slip, and that their holes are well aligned, and then tighten the two solenoid retaining bolts. If the solenoid is being used, hook up the wire to the terminal in the case plug.
Step 5: Remove Retaining Clip
Using a press, large pair of channel locks, or other suitable tool (shown), compress the valve body accumulator and remove the retaining clip. Install a new sealing ring on the accumulator piston, and re-install it into the valve body. Compress the accumulator and spring and reinstall the retaining clip.
Step 6: Modify Valve Body (Professional Mechanic Tip)
Some aftermarket shift improver kits contain a modified 1-2 shift valve (top left) and plug for the bleed hole in the valve body. Installing this valve and blocking the feed hole (right) does not allow the transmission to up shift into second gear when the selector is in the low-gear position. This basically allows manual control of the 1-2 upshift above the governor speed. Note that this modification allows the transmission to shift to low gear at any vehicle speed when the shifter is moved to the low position.
Step 7: Position Governor Filter Screen
Prior to installing the valve body, place a new governor filter screen in the case. The correct location is in the hole closest to the output shaft.
Step 8: Install Valve Body
Install the valve body to the case. Align the governor tubes and the shift linkage while lowering the valve body into position. If you force the tubes into position, they bend and leak. Install all of the bolts with a couple of turns by hand before tightening any of them. Use care not to move the upper valve body gasket out of position during this procedure.
Step 9: Install Filter Tube
Install the filter tube into the case with a new O-ring. Use a small amount of lubricant to avoid damaging the O-ring during installation. A damaged and leaking O-ring results in poor transmission performance and potential damage after the unit is placed in service. Note that on 1964–1966 models with the onepiece side-mounted filter, the O-ring is placed directly on the filter tube.
Step 10: Install Filter
Install the filter over the filter tube and retain with the special bolt. Do not overtighten this bolt; it can be easily broken off in the valve body.
Install Exterior Components
Step 1: Install Modulator Valve
Install the modulator valve into the case. Push the modulator into the case with a new O-ring. Install the hold-down bracket and tighten the single 5/16- inch bolt to hold it in place.
Step 2: Install Governor
Inspect the governor drive gear for wear and replace it if the gear teeth show wear or damage. The gear is replaced by driving out the roll pin and pulling the gear off the governor. The new gear is not drilled for the roll pin, and requires a small hole drilled through it prior to driving the roll pin in place. In most cases it is not necessary to take the governor apart. Clean it thoroughly and make sure all parts move freely and both springs are in place during assembly. Install the governor into the case, meshing it with the drive gear on the output shaft. Install the governor cover, gasket, and four retaining bolts.
Step 3: Install Speedometer Gear Housing
Place a new outer seal onto the speedometer gear housing. Install a new inner lip seal and metal retainer inside the housing. Lubricate the speedometer driver gear and install into the housing. Reference the marks on the housing end and place them toward the retainer. Lubricate the outer seal and push the speedometer gear housing into the case. Install the retainer and tighten the bolt. The retainer ends should mate up squarely with the corresponding locations on the housing.
Step 4: Install Tail Housing Gasket (Critical Inspection)
Check the engagement of the governor gear and speedometer-driven gears. Place a new tail housing gasket on the case.
Step 5: Replace Bushings
Using a sharp punch, remove the tail housing seal and bushing. Drive in a new bushing and seal.
Step 6: Install Tail Housing
Install the tail housing and tighten all six bolts securely.
Step 7: Install Oil Pan Gasket
Install a new oil pan gasket. The thick fiber gasket is recommended rather than cork or rubber. Install the oil pan and gently tighten all the oil pan bolts.
Step 8: Install Filler Tube Seal
Install a new transmission filler tube seal. I recommend upgrading to the multiple-lip seal shown instead of the O-ringstyle tube and seal. Firmly push the filler tube into the multiple-lip seal till fully seated. This type of seal is far superior to the early-style O-ring seals because they simply do not leak.
Written by Cliff Ruggles and Posted with Permission of CarTechBooks